Important fragrance news in a quick brief

Ingredients

Softly romantic yet endlessly modern, peony has become one of perfumery’s most beloved floral signatures. Unlike rose or jasmine, however, peony does not yield a natural essential oil in the traditional sense. Its delicate petals are too fragile and elusive for extraction, which means perfumers recreate its airy beauty through a blend of rose, lily-of-the-valley, watery notes and subtle fruity facets. The result is a flower imagined rather than distilled — and perhaps that is part of its charm. In fragrance, peony brings a luminous freshness that sits somewhere between a crisp bouquet and silk warmed by sunlight. It is floral without becoming powdery, feminine without excess sweetness, and elegant without trying too hard. This versatility explains why peony appears everywhere from sparkling colognes to velvety orientals, often acting as the note that gives a perfume its “blush-pink” glow. Modern perfumers particularly love peony for the transparency it lends to compositions. In contemporary florals, it softens richer blooms such as tuberose or gardenia, adding lift and movement. Paired with pear or lychee, peony becomes playful and radiant; combined with suede, musk or woods, it takes on a more sophisticated, almost cashmere-like texture. There is also an emotional quality to peony that resonates deeply with fragrance lovers. The flower is associated with prosperity, romance and fleeting beauty across many cultures, particularly in China where it has long been celebrated as t

Ingredients

Florientals occupy that irresistible space between opulence and softness — where blooming petals meet smouldering spice, amber and woods. More sensual than a traditional floral, yet lighter than an outright oriental, they wrap the skin in warmth while still feeling unmistakably elegant. It’s fragrance at its most magnetic. The beauty of a floriental lies in its contrasts. Think luminous jasmine dusted with pink pepper, velvety rose folded into patchouli, or orange blossom softened by vanilla and benzoin. These are perfumes that evolve beautifully throughout the day, revealing creamy, spicy and resinous facets as they settle into the skin. While the category first flourished in the glamorous power-fragrance era of the 1980s, today’s florientals feel more refined and wearable. Modern perfumers balance richness with transparency, creating scents that glow rather than overwhelm. A whisper of saffron here, a veil of incense there — enough intrigue to turn heads without ever shouting. Florientals are also wonderfully versatile. In cooler months, they feel cocooning and luxurious; in warmer weather, white-floral-led compositions can radiate like sunlit silk. They transition seamlessly from daytime sophistication to evening allure, making them a favourite among fragrance lovers seeking a signature scent with depth and personality. Perhaps that is why florientals remain enduringly captivating: they celebrate duality. Soft yet powerful. Romantic yet mysterious. Comforting yet undeniabl

Ingredients

Pistachio as a note is not new, but has become perfumery’s most irresistible obsession. After years dominated by syrupy vanilla and caramel gourmands, fragrance houses are turning towards something creamier, greener and infinitely more sophisticated: the softly toasted allure of pistachio. It still delivers comfort and indulgence, but with a textured nuttiness that feels distinctly more grown-up. Beauty editors and perfumers alike are already calling pistachio one of the defining fragrance notes of 2026. Part of the appeal lies in pistachio’s versatility. It can feel silky and dessert-like, but also woody, aromatic or even subtly salty. In other words, it gives gourmand lovers something less obvious than cupcake vanilla. On fragrance forums, enthusiasts describe the best pistachio scents as “mouthwatering without feeling like dessert” — exactly the balance modern consumers are craving. Among the fragrances of the movement is New Notes Latte Pistachio, which wraps the note in a creamy café-style haze. Rather than shouting “gelato”, it leans softly lactonic and comforting, like pistachio folded into steamed milk. Meanwhile, M. Micallef Pistachio Chic takes a more opulent route, pairing whipped cream and pear with rum, chestnut and marshmallow for a decadent oriental-vanilla effect. Then there’s Alexandre.J Sweet Enigma, another sign that niche perfumery is embracing pistachio’s sensual side. Here, the nutty creaminess is heightened with ambered woods and confectionary warmth, r

Ingredients

Step into Jovoy London and you immediately understand why this Parisian house calls itself an “embassy of rare perfumes.” Tucked into Mayfair’s polished elegance, the boutique feels less like a shop and more like a sanctuary for scent—arched ceilings, deep carmine walls, and antique wooden displays inviting you to linger, explore, and, above all, smell. Founded in 1923 and later revived by the indefatigable François Hénin, Jovoy has always balanced heritage with a restless curiosity. Its London outpost embodies that spirit: a place where over 40 fragrance houses sit side-by-side, encouraging discovery without the constraints of mainstream perfumery. The philosophy is simple yet intoxicating—perfume as conversation, as art, as a shared obsession. But Jovoy is not merely a curator. It is also a creator. Among its most compelling in-house ventures is Jeroboam, a collection that distils the brand’s love affair with intensity and modernity. Conceived as “perfume extracts for urban nomads,” Jeroboam plays with the idea of scent as a universal language—portable, potent, and deeply personal. Where Jovoy’s own fragrances often revel in opulence and storytelling, Jeroboam is sleek, almost architectural. Built around musks—those skin-like, intimate notes that blur the line between wearer and perfume—the compositions feel contemporary yet seductive. Creations like Origino and Gozo wrap the wearer in a halo of warmth, while newer releases continue to explore oud, spice, and texture with a

Ingredients

Please click on this link for my Substack reviews of: Guerlain L’Homme Ideal Cologne Forte; Diptyque Orpheon eau de toilette and new candles; Marc-Antoine Barrois B87.135; Balmain Rose De Soie; Miller Harris Tea Tonique eau de parfum and extrait; Miller Harris Soufflot; Maison Crivelli Musc Nurasana; Montblanc Neroli Letters; Peosym Gullal. The post is not [...] The post Marc-Antoine Barrois B87.135, Guerlain L’Homme Ideal Cologne Forte, Montblanc Neroli Letters and other reviews – 2026 appeared first on .

Launches

Two new interviews for you. The first is with Eris founder Barbara Herman, in which she discussed her latest release – Mother’s Milk, composed by Antoine Lie – as well as her thoughts on the current state of the industry. The second is with journalist Jo Fairley, and it covers the launch of the new [...] The post Barbara Herman and Jo Fairley live interviews appeared first on .